Bonnie S. Benwick reviews Virgin Territory, a new cookbook oriented around olive oil:
“[Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s] explanation of why we should care about identifying what is truly ‘extra-virgin’ is presented without hyperbole. Such oil is extracted and processed without chemical treatment and refining; it contains no more than 0.8 grams of oleic acid per 100 grams of oil, and it must be free of defective flavors and aromas. It does not necessarily come from a first pressing. Its combination of polyphenols is said to be the most healthful of all olive oils’.
“Jenkins’s bottom line: Rely on taste more than labels.”