John Whaite puts his finger on the appeal of food markets:
“[It] isn’t just ingredients that make markets special. In this plastic-wrap age, when almost everything we consume comes with a use-by date, it’s as though we’ve lost our senses.
“At a market, you select a bunch of tomatoes, bring it to your face and inhale, seeking a sweet, peppery vine smell. If it isn’t there, you find another. You ask the fishmonger to teach you how to pick out the freshest catch. The butcher will give you ideas for what to do with that piece of brisket. And those cheeses, those mountainous tractor-wheels of cheese, tower above you and inspire daydreams of Welsh rarebit or cauliflower cheese.”