“It was very exciting because we were getting things at Chez Panisse that no one had ever heard of — fresh goat cheese, radicchio, blood oranges — and focusing on buying food from local producers, before the term ‘locavore’ was around.
“In the early ’80s, we were insanely busy. At opening time, 5:00 pm, we’d have a line out the door, which didn’t stop until we closed. The hosts were turning people away. I worked in the café and we worked very, very hard but it was amazing to be surrounded by such beautiful ingredients and serve them.”